Say Cheese: Gres des Vosges

GresDesVosgesI stared down at the wheel, and realized something was off. No, maybe not off, but, different…Yes, the wheel was not quite a wheel. It was an oval. Perhaps I am more of a burgeoning child in the world of cheese than I already thought, but this is eye-catching. Who thought an oval could have such impact?

Alsace is the land we travel to for this washed-rind cow’s milk cheese. A place that rests on an edge, geographically, culinarily, and in days past militarily, politically. But lets not look back to darker times, not when we have such deliciousness at hand. The beguiling mix of French and German cultures now sings as a harmonious chorus, rich in wine and food traditions.

The fern that adorns the top of Gres des Vosges is charming, and asks the question, Why? It is obviously for show, as it daintily sits atop offering no enhancement to flavor, or structural assistance. There is a fair amount of debate over the reason for said fern. Some claim that the fern is a symbol of the Vosges mountains. But several others claimed that the plant symbols of the Vosges were those of the blueberry and daffodil. I’m settling on a shared title until further proof.

One should not gloss over the washed rind on this cheese, as the washing solution is one of cherry Kirsch: a clear, colorless fruit brandy, in its finer form it has a surprisingly dry profile. The traditional method of distillation ferments the entire mass of the cherry, pit and all. This releases small amounts of hydrocyanic acid from the pits, lending the finish a bitter almond undertone. Never fear, though, science is near. In these doses you are far from toxicity; apple seeds also contain this chemical naturally, and as they say, an apple a day keeps the doctor away.

In taste, this is everything and more you could expect from a cheese washed with a liqueur! Strength, funk, spice! You must stand strong and willing, but the rewards are great. Especially when washed down with a lush wine, perhaps even from the region. Bring on the aged Gewürztraminer, the Pinot Gris, and please for goodness sake, some Riesling Spätlese!

Want to track down this cheese or maybe others? Visit my friends at Formaggio Kitchen at formaggiokitchen.com and see what they have in stock.

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Recipe: Roasted Chickpeas

roastchickpeasI have a new-found love of chickpeas. In the past I’ve felt at best indifferent about the little guys. But in our house we’ve recently fallen in love with their versatility, coupled with how incredibly healthy they are. Just look up their specs, it’s pretty stunning.

As part of our constant quest to find healthy everyday recipes, we discovered this tasty treat of roasted chickpeas. I give full credit to my husband Ben for this one; he had this idea first and really perfected the recipe.

Chickpeas make an incredible snack. Served hot out of the oven, it’s ridiculous how delicious they are. Keep them in a Tupperware in the kitchen in place of other salty snacks.

  • 1–3 cans chickpeas (as much as you feel like having around)
and the below to your taste:
  • salt
  • pepper
  • cayenne
  • garlic powder
  • olive oil
  • garlic
  • Parmesan

Rinse the chickpeas and spread them out on towels to dry, ideally for a couple of hours. Let them get really, really dry, so that they are roasting, not steaming, when you put them in the oven.

Set the oven to 425º, and when the chickpeas are ready, put them in a bowl and toss them with just a little olive oil, only enough to coat them lightly. (We’re not frying them.) Add a dash of salt, pepper, cayenne, and garlic powder to taste. Line a baking pan with parchment paper, spread the chickpeas out in it so that they are in only one layer, and toss it in the oven.

Stir/turn the chickpeas every ten minutes. While the chickpeas are cooking, mince as much garlic as you like, and grate the Parmesan. Keep the chickpeas roasting until they are firm with a slight crisp, about 35–40 minutes. Pour into a bowl and toss with the garlic and Parmesan, stirring to coat with the cheese. Salt and pepper to taste, and serve.

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Say Cheese: Kinsman Ridge

Kinsman-Ridge-sm-2

Photo compliments of FormaggioKitchen.com

Doug and Debby Erb may only have formally established the Landaff creamery in 2008, but they definitely know what’s up. The farm that inspired it all, Springvale Farms in Landaff, New Hampshire, was founded in the 1950’s by Doug’s parents. Then in the late 80’s, Doug and Debby acquired most of the farm, and they’re proud of their many improvements.

The Erbs have been making another cheese, Landaff, for a while now, but Kinsman Ridge is a more recent edition. This is a raw cow’s milk cheese, made in the style of a soft French tomme. The rind is washed and becomes a beautiful dusty brown with natural aging. It is transported to The Cellars at Jasper Hill for that aging to occur, and you may be familiar with the magical things that happen to cheese there.

As to be expected, lots of earthy developed flavors lie in the rind, giving way to the dense but moist interior below. It’s a picnic of flavor on a sunny spring day, out in a grassy field, nibbling on nuts, crudité, and bread and butter.

Want to track down this cheese or maybe others? Visit my friends at Formaggio Kitchen at formaggiokitchen.com and see what they have in stock.

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Italy: Beef, Beer, Battlestar Galactica (okay, not the last one)

mewithribs

Action shot! You can almost smell the fresh chopped garlic and the foaming Peroni waterfall.

I hope a few of you out there got The Office reference with the title of this post. Dwight Schrute has made my world a better, and funnier place. But off of references and onto the real business at hand, which is ribs.

Often, more often than not, I end up finding ribs dry and overcooked. This is not as much of a problem if you enjoy that jerky-meat kind of texture, gnawing with a meditative enthusiasm. But I am not personally a fan. Especially when it is not jerky, it is supposed to be tender juicy meat to be plucked off the bone.

As we raided the grocery store here in Italy with almost a barbaric tone, I came across ribs in the meat department. The cart was already overflowing with cured meats, cheeses and fresh sausage. RIBS YES! I thought, despite the fact that the protein and fat ratio of our haul was out of proportion.

I have never personally grilled ribs. I have only watched people cook them. But as I said previously, they have only been a disappointment. As we tooled around the rest of the store, I began to mull over how to attack this issue. Ribs were full of connective tissue. They were already pre disposed to being tough! Well, step one, break that down with a marinade.

While we were in the beer and liquor aisle, continuing our spree. Aperol! We can make spritzes! Ahahahaha!-I noticed the loose cans of Peroni, and had a small lightbulb moment. Beer was an excellent marinade, that would tenderize and moisturize, I grabbed two cans and tossed them into the overflowing cart.

My friend told me I looked like a grill ninja with my scarf around my face in the darkness. I welcome being referred to as Grill Ninja in place of my birth name if you like.

My friend told me I looked like a grill ninja with my scarf around my face in the darkness. I welcome being referred to as Grill Ninja in place of my birth name if you like.

Let me explain part of my sudden urge to cook ribs. This was mostly in part to discovering our rental villa was equipped with a beautiful outdoor wood burning grill. I had never cooked with wood before, but I knew I had to give it a go upon laying eyes on its stony exterior.

Although we were a good nine hours away from dinner time, I put the ribs into the marinade as soon as we returned home, these babies were gunna soak. I also threw in a head of garlic chopped up rough into the mix for good measure.

Part two of attacking the toughness issue was the cooking method. One way to do good tender BBQ is to cook lowwww and slowwww (notice the extra letters for emphasis). But how many of us are going to babysit a grill for a good six hours? Tending and feeding a perfectly thick bed of smoky coals all the while. The answer is, few, and this was not the time nor the place. Also, I didn’t want pit BBQ, I wanted tender meat, kissed by wood smoke, not enveloped by it. A little more of a springtime flavor profile than smokey southern summer.

So all I had to do, was par braise the ribs for a little bit in the oven in the same liquid they had been marinating in. Then I took them out, and finished them on the grill. The end result was perfect. Tender, delicious, wood kissed meat without overwhelming char. Also, the beer really stood out, giving some juicy mouth watering depths to sink your teeth into.

I can’t wait to experiment more with this method, and with ribs specifically. So many marinades and braises, so little time.

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Italy: Yeah, that’s happening.

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A shot of one of the high tech machines they use to manage the olive oil production on this small estate.

If you would like to see a little more about what the past week or so has been like for me, hop on over to my other blog, Girl on Game and check it out. I will spare you the details here. But in the spirit of travel, and writing, two of my favorite things, I am doing both now.

So here I am in Umbria, and everything you see in movies is true. Except, people are even nicer, more beautiful, more generous and the food is even more delicious than you could hope for. Also, everyone makes their own olive oil. It’s the best pieces of stereotype. We came here due to circumstances (of which you can read in said other blog) with only the clothes on our backs, and people have been incredible. If you ever want to travel light, and feel at home thousands of miles away from just that, come here.

Back to olive oil. So we are staying at this gorgeous vacation villa called la Montagnola, more on that in detail later as well. But for now in brief, their olive oil is incredible. We are perched on a mountaintop, and there are olive trees everywhere there are not woods. When we tasted it, the spice made me cough, because it was so fresh. So fruity, but so savory, they had poured tastes for us right out of the tanks. Our host had also talked about what great pains they take to extract the oil without overheating it, as that changes the flavor. Of course, to do this, it takes longer, with better machinery.

As we have visited different wineries, it’s really true, everyone makes their own oil. Someone told us how people who own a little land, make their own oil by taking their olives to a facility. This oil, is their table oil, and they use it for dipping in when it is fresh, and cooking as it gets older. They always have two bottles, one with the eating oil, and one with the cooking. The closest I ever came to that is grinding my own peanut butter at the natural foods store, but I didn’t grow the peanuts. Incredible!

All for now, hopefully updates soon, but I can tell you here, it is tasty tasty!

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Say Cheese: Challerhocker

challerhocker

Photo compliments of FormaggioKitchen.com

Before I tasted this cheese, I knew I would like it because of its name, which translates to mean, cellar sitter. That’s just awesome. The recipe used is similar to the far better known Appenzeller from the alpine Switzerland, but this cheese makes a name for itself.

This is in part to the loving care of second generation cheese maker Walter Räss. An interesting tidbit is that he chooses to make his own rennet rather than purchase it. Add a higher fat content and washing the wheels with wine and you get an elevated Appenzeller: Challerhocker. Or should I say lowered, since it, sits in, the, cellar…ahem.

Poking about the world wide interwebs for peoples impressions of this highly allocated cheese, there was an abundant call to melt it atop burgers. This is a fantastic melting cheese, and its inherent meaty onion-e tones would make it fast friends with labors of the grill.

A sticky red exterior hides the dense creamy interior that looks like a fine gruyere welcoming you in. Gruyere this is not, instead the bittersweet alpine notes smile on in the scenery while the rich milk takes the lead. Onions, nuts, smoke and caramel all chime in, and there is a delicious chorus.

Only so many wheels make it to the US a year all the way from Toggenburg Switzerland, so if you can find it, scoop it up!

Want to track down this cheese or maybe others? Visit my friends at Formaggio Kitchen at formaggiokitchen.com and see what they have in stock

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Say Cheese: Livarot

 

livarotThe Normans don’t tread lightly in the world of food. They also didn’t tread lightly on the world in general. To make a long story very, very short, the Normans were Vikings who were allowed to settle in France so that they would stop raiding the place. In fact, the name of the land they settled, Normandy, comes from the old French word for “North man.” Raiding can make one quite hungry, and those hunger pangs have echoed through time in the hearty food and dining traditions of the region, including Livarot.

This cheese’s namesake is a market town in Normandy, and its history can be traced back 700 years to cheesemaking monks. It must be produced within twelve miles of the town, and only from the milk of Normande cows. It also must be wrapped by five bands made from the bulrush, or as we know it in America, cattail. The dried leaves are boiled, and in the end resemble something akin to raffia. In more commercial examples of production, green plastic is used in place of authentic bulrush. As you might truss a roast for the oven, these bands would perform the task of maintaining the cheese’s shape. Livarot has been nicknamed ‘the Colonel’ as the stripes mimic the rank in the service.

A close up of the lid of the wooden container it sleeps in.

A close up of the lid of the wooden container it sleeps in.

Although it only has forty percent milk fat, this cheese has perceived heft in its creamy interior. The exterior brandishes a reddish orange tinge from the annatto seed-dyed brine with which it is washed, and which also imparts the wheel with richer funkier tones while keeping the paste moist and delicious. For a real taste of place experience, it would only be right to give a slice a try while washing it down with a splash of Calvados. Calvados a step too strong? Perhaps a little Eric Bordelet Poire instead, a bubbly and refreshing native.

Want to track down this cheese or maybe others? Visit my friends at Formaggio Kitchen at formaggiokitchen.com and see what they have in stock.

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